The Land of Fire and Ice

The Northern Lights have always been on my bucket list, so I was delighted when my husband and I booked a long weekend to Iceland. Regularly highlighted as one of the most likely places to see the natural phenomenon, we were confident our luck would be in.

We learned how to pronounce Reykjavik, and ordered our Icelandic Krona. Warm clothes packed, we headed to the airport for our flight. Sitting back in cramped seats, we enjoyed a glass of wine, departing for a child free break. Everything ran to time, and we arrived at the Hotel, hungry and eager to explore.

Iceland has a reputation for long hours of darkness, but in February the average was around 10 hours of daylight, although by 6.30pm it was pitch black. Having unpacked we donned extra layers to face the elements, the thick pristine snow a pleasing contrast to the night sky. Not wishing to venture too far, we found a nearby restaurant. We enjoyed our meals, politely declining a suggestion of a local delicacy: fermented shark.

Only there a few days, we had a lot to pack in, and eating out child free was a high priority. My personal highlight came from a restaurant named Icelandic Fish and Chips. What it lacked in originality, it more than made up for in flavour. Not quite sure what to expect, recalling the fermented shark, we entered apprehensively. However, the food was excellent. The fish was cooked in a delicious, light batter, served on a refreshing mango and spinach salad, with roasted potatoes.

Daily walks with spectacular scenery were really special. A striking modern interpretation of a viking ship sits proudly on the harbourside. The metallic sculpture a fitting tribute to the Viking heritage of the land of fire and ice.

Finally it was time for our excursion to see the Northern Lights. Picked up from our hotel by a luxurious coach, we headed off on our 3 hour adventure. Our guide was an enthusiastic woman named Helga. Dressed in a warm Nordic style cardigan, with one of those extra long pointy hoods which look more suitable for a garden gnome, she was a true talent at storytelling. After her scientific explanation for the spectacular natural lights, her real passion took over as she delved into Icelandic folklore. Tales of elves, trolls and even a mysterious sea creature thought to be a relative of Nessie, were certainly entertaining, particularly when told by someone determined to make us believe these creatures existed. The bus journey passed quickly as she enthralled us in her unique, half-demented style.

The cold air hit hard as we stepped off the toasty coach and spread out to find viewing spots. Surrounded by mountains, ice and snow, our breath fogged the air as we looked up to the skies in anticipation. Helga reassured us that we had the perfect evening, and we’d see something soon. Cameras poised in our gloved hands we waited… and waited… and waited. My neck started to ache from craning up at the black, perfectly normal Icelandic sky. After 2 hours marching on the spot to keep warm, even Helga gave up. Hugely disappointed we started the journey back, Helga’s tales not quite so captivating due to our disappointment. The tour company did offer another trip for free since we hadn’t seen the famed aurora borealis, but we would not have time.

Our next adventure took place the following day as we headed out on our whale watching trip. My husband and I were in fits of laughter as we dressed in the waterproof suits. Already prepared for the cold, by the time we put the suits over our layers, we looked like michelin men. Perhaps you’ve been on a relaxing boat ride on holiday, or a glass bottomed boat to view the sea life. I can assure you that those tranquil experiences were the opposite of ours that day. The boat climbed the energetic waves and roller-coastered back down, wind and ocean spray slapping our faces as we white knuckle gripped the railings. It was thrilling and terrifying at the same time.

The chances of seeing a whale on a winter tour is around 90%, I’m pleased my husband was in that category. Sadly, having moved to the other side of the boat just as a large minke whale surfaced, I was in the unlucky 10% and there were no more sightings.

Our last must-do task for the trip was a day at the Blue Lagoon. This luxury outdoor spa with geothermal seawater claims a host of health benefits. The warm blue water contrasting with the chilly outdoors and the snow felt truly magical. Swimming to the mask bar, we collected handfuls of natural white clay to rub on our skin, certain we’d leave looking 10 years younger. We sipped on a glass of wine in the water, later enjoying lunch at Lava restaurant; an eatery built into an 800 year old lava cliff. I was pleased we’d left the Blue Lagoon to last as we left feeling utterly relaxed. At least one of the experiences in Iceland had lived up to expectations!

To sum up, our adventure to Iceland did not go to plan... I’d gone to see the Northern Lights, with no Northern Lights, and a Whale watching tour, with no whales. However, Iceland has plenty to offer and some of the friendliest people I’ve met. Ironically, whilst we were away, the Aurora Borealis was out in full force in many parts of Scotland.