Two Wild Women and a Tent

May 2000

I whispered hello to the lady I was sharing the hostel room with as she had been snoozing when I walked in. After making up my bed I found the drying room. Hanging up my dripping tent and waterproofs, my room mate arrived with some laundry. She asked in an American accent ‘Where on earth have you been to get so wet? It’s been a dry day here in Ullapool.’ I told her about the two mountains I’d climbed the previous day in the rain then camped overnight. She knew about Munros as she’d been up one or two. We chatted a while about the USA. She lived in North Carolina with her husband Kenneth and her name was Terri. She was happy to join me for a walk along the street in Ullapool for a cuppa and a scone in the tearoom. We visited a charity shop where she bought a pair of fair isle gloves for my seven month old granddaughter.

We shared a table for our evening meal and discussed where we were both heading in the morning. Terri was travelling by public transport and had hoped to catch a bus north to Durness but none went direct except from Lairg. So she wasn’t quite sure where her next step would be. I would be moving on to the Isle of Skye for two days of volunteer work for the John Muir Trust. This had been my routine over the last few years in May - my way of attempting to ‘give something back’ to the mountains. I asked if she would like to join me and no hesitation - Yes! I was sure the conservation group would be happy with another pair of helping hands. My intention had been to camp by the edge of Loch Slapin at Torrin like many of the other volunteers but Terri had no tent (I didn’t know her well enough then to suggest sharing my small tent!). We booked into Broadford Youth Hostel. Because I’d retreated from the wet wilds of Ross-shire a day earlier than planned, the next day was free as I wasn’t due to meet the volunteer group until the evening so I asked Terri if she would like to climb a Skye Munro. Once again, no hesitation! I was impressed by her sense of adventure and spontaneity.

We left next morning after breakfast. It was a fine day for travelling, our tongues never ceasing. Terri had visited Scotland over the past few years in May, travelling by public transport to explore many different areas. Kenneth had joined her a couple of times but preferred to remain in the USA. He didn’t share the same love of Scotland. They were both University Lecturers, finishing work for the summer each May. Terri couldn’t wait to step onto the plane heading for Scotland.

Taking two hours to reach the new Skye Bridge, I stopped to pay the toll before crossing. This was Terri’s first visit to Skye. Blaven was one of the less difficult mountains on Skye but no easy walk. She was up for it. This would be my fourth ascent of Blaven - my favourite Munro. Beyond a small loch Blaven slips into view. I stopped. Wow! It never fails to catch my breath.

It had been tough but Terri had thoroughly enjoyed her first Skye Munro and we seemed to have a similar walking ability. We never stopped blethering!

After a quick chat with friends camping by Loch Slapin I introduced Terri and received details of the work party for the next two days - pulling out old fences high up on the hillside of Beinn Dearg Bheag, a lesser Red Cuillin. Meeting at 8.00am at Torrin. Wonderful!

Halfway up the mountain, working together, pulling out the remains of an old fence and winding up wires was a great way of getting to know each other. We were like old friends - never at a loss for words. We had a laugh when realising that Terri had come half way round the world to spend a couple of days working for nothing getting wet and mucky half way up a boggy hill! She was loving it.

On day two we finished at lunchtime and set off for Kyle of Lochalsh where Terri was sadly catching a train to Perthshire to visit friends then head to Europe to embark on a long distance walking trail. We exchanged addresses and telephone numbers, agreed to meet up next May to wild camp and climb mountains together. Big hugs and she was off.

This happened twenty five years ago. Little did I know it would be the start of a special friendship. My outdoor pathway through life was about to change…..

Each year Terri and I would meet up to enjoy a week in the wilds together. In May 2004 we undertook a two hundred mile challenge walk across Scotland, camping and climbing mountains on the way. On our last evening we chatted long into the night before sleep drew us in. We had loved almost every moment of our long walk. Fear, exhilaration, laughter and tears had been shared making us appreciate how fragile this gift of life was. We felt fortunate to have been strong enough, mentally and physically, to cope so well with everything this challenge had thrown at us. Different decisions could have been made with different outcomes but we were both extremely happy with the way things turned out. Nothing could compare with the breathtaking scenery we had witnessed, it was beyond words. Unbelievable emotions had been shared and many subjects discussed. It had been the best walking experience ever with so much trust and good fun. This precious bond of friendship would continue between us forever.

May 2025

In a few weeks time we are sharing a cottage on the Isle of Coll where we have bicycles booked to explore the island. We have become civilised women!